Panting in floral and flannel

I’m not in love with, I wouldn’t go that far, but totally delighted with Burda 7400. I’ve made two versions of it before, although the first was a bit of a botch up.  You can see them here. This past week I made two more pairs.

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This fabric was a spontaneous purchase at a 70% sale at Fabricland. I was just heading out the door, empty-handed, when I spotted this in the home decor section. I think it’s a stylized floral design, and the fabric is double? two-sided? In the background it’s all woven together, but in the “bubbles” there are two light layers. It gives the effect of padded or quilted fabric, but it’s very light and flexible (viscose and polyester). It’s a different look, isn’t it?

Here’s a look at the inside. You can see I used some linen fabric for the pockets and inner elastic casing to eliminate bulk.

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I was ransacking my closet, looking for things to wear with it, and found this old jacket.

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Double-breasted is coming back, but the shoulders? Does the padding have to be removed?

I also had a piece of striped wool flannel, which I got from Fabrics etc. It’s old fabric, apparently, left over from a parent store’s warehouse. The manager, Tian, who is becoming a friend, was selling it at a severe discount.

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I’m discovering that elastic waist pants are really quick and easy to make. This pattern is just short of fitted, despite the waist. If I were to put  two standard darts in the back, I’d have to add a fly or zip and I’d have a pair of fitted pants. I think this will become a TNT.

This is a really classic look, isn’t it? I think these pants will be really versatile. In fact I can imagine wearing both pairs at home with t-shirts, and then taking them out to the opera or dinner out. Yes?

 

Textural trousers

When I found some textured, floral fabric at Our Social Fabric, which sells donated fabric for $1 – $3 CAD per metre, I thought I’d found the perfect material for another version of Burda’s Big Girl Play Pants. Then I changed my mind. Then I changed it back. I tried all kinds of other pieces of fabric, draping them over my arm, fondling them, folding them, trying to determine what would have the right amount of drape and heft. I think this is a real skill. You start with the uncut cloth, say two metres or so, and try to determine how it will behave in a much smaller pattern piece. I finally decided this fabric would not be too bulky for the project.

Burda’s pattern is for short pants with wide short legs. Last time I extended the wide legs, and then experimented with off-kilter long darts to narrow the legs. This time I altered the paper pattern, adding a 7″ wide strip to the bottom of the pattern, in line with the outer leg seam. Then I redrew the inseam . I admit I drew it freehand.

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I’m pretty happy with the result. It matches pretty closely to what I envisioned when I first bought the pattern, planning to alter it.

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I don’t have a whole lot to wear with them at this time. They’re the colour of water, a colour I totally love, and cream.

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I had a set of small fabric samples, about 4×5 inches, made of superfine linen. Two of them are shades of aqua, so I used them to make back pockets. I lined them with a bit of turban cotton to give them an appropriate body.

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The fabric is natural, and pretty coarse. It’s either cotton or maybe cotton and hemp. The weave is pretty open, which is why it’s not too bulky. I like the muted floral design. The other side of it is pretty nice too, but I thought this was the correct side to use.

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I had one more square of linen that I pinned to the front waistband as a (Japanese-inspired???) bit of frou-frou. It serves no useful function. And I’m still debating whether to add belt loops. It looks nice with a belt? What do you think?

I know my taste can be a bit bonkers sometimes, and these pants aren’t for everyone, but I do see this style from time to time in a fashion mag, or a Hollywood celebrity mag, and I always perk up when I do, and think “I like those pants!” So, for better or for worse, this is what I’ll be wearing this fall.

I’ve been reviewing what I made this summer. By my count I made 5 pairs of pants, one pair of shorts, three long sleeved woven tops, two woven shells, and 8 or 9 teeshirts. Most items go with most other items, so it’s a good wearable wardrobe. I’m now going to do the same for the cooler months of the year. This is the first item. I’m working on another couple of pairs of trousers, which I’ll post about as soon as I’m done 🙂

Tanks and a boohoo Burda

Have I ever confessed here that I’m an airhead? I have problems dealing with reality. In sewing terms that means I love imagining and creating mental images of the clothes, and have a harder time doing the actual sewing with the actual fabric. And also, I can be suckered easily by a great envelope photo, disregarding the line drawing. The photo is fantasy, the line drawing is reality. I know all of you are nodding your heads at that.

So, after I downloaded a Burda yoga coverup, a kind of capelet, based on a gorgeous photo, I should have paid attention to the slightly queasy feeling I got every time I looked at the line drawing. Right? You don’t ignore the queasiness and hope it goes away. Sheesh.

Thankfully I didn’t go for the velvet right away.

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I found a large chunk of cotton knit fabric at Our Social Fabric just before I cut into the velvet whose due date was expiring in my stash. It’s a thick doubleknit, very stretchy across the grain, with almost none vertically. The problem? I don’t like neck gathers. I really don’t like neck gathers. I’m not sure they showed a front photo on the Burda website. They showed a sideview, like this.

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It looks nice from the side, doesn’t it?

I like the hood. I’ll wear this for a while at home in the morning chill. Then I expect I’ll cut it apart and use the fabric for a teeshirt. Maybe a teeshirt with a hood?

On the plus side, I decided to cut apart an old tank top and use it as a pattern for some ordinary cotton doubleknit that I had and wanted to experiment with. I made a tshirt before from a simple  cotton doubleknit, but it skimmed the body and just didn’t look right. I wanted to make something with negative ease, suspecting that’s what the fabric is really for.

I ended up making three, all identical, except for this one, which has contrasting neck and arm bands because I ran out of the charcoal.

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I love tanks. I had several, but they’ve all gotten too old, too worn and too short. This experiment worked! I’d model all three, but hey, they’re identical 🙂 They’ll get a lot of use as undershirts for winter and then see the light of day in summer.

When I picked up the stripped fabric for the capelet, I also got a couple of metres of “mango” coloured technical wool. I was going to use it for a long-sleeved undershirt, but now I’m wondering if I shouldn’t just go for another couple of tanks. What do you think?